On our Baruntse Expedition with Mera Peak Climbing, we climb both of the mountains. However, our main focus is on climbing Baruntse, and Mera Peak climbing is expected to ensure that we are well prepared for our ultimate climb. Mt. Baruntse is located between Lhotse and Makalu at the epicenter of three glacier valleys including Barun, Imja and Hunku. The mountain was first ascended by Colin Todd and Geoff Harrow in 1954 by the South-East Ridge.
However, the steep sections of ice at 50 degrees and a prominent ice cliff at about 7,000 meters make the South-East Ridge of Baruntse a somewhat difficult climb. Therefore, we choose a more accessible and popular alternative via South Ridge. This route also gives us the opportunity to acclimatize and climb the Mera Peak (6476m/21,246ft). We make two high camps above the Base Camp – Camp I just below East Col at an altitude of 5,700m and the Camp II on the South-East Ridge at a height of 6,420m.
The Baruntse Expedition with Mera Peak Climbing also includes a few days trek into the scenic heartland of the Khumbu region. Throughout our journey we are rewarded with exceptional views of the Himalayan vista.
Climbing permits for peaks in the Nepal Himalayas are issued for all seasons by the mountaineering section of the minisry of culture, tourisem and civil aviation. The requisite official documents must be furnished when seeking permit.
Day 01: Arrival and transfer to Hotel in KathmanduUpon arrival in Kathmandu Airport, our airport representative will welcome you and give you short info about Kathmandu and directly drive to the Hotel. Overnight at the hotel.
Day 02: Sightseeing for a full day in Kathmandu Valley.World heritage sites like Kathmandu Durbar Square, Swayambhu Nath, Boudha Nath, Pasupati Nath, etc. Preparation for the trekking.
Day 03: Fly to Lukla (2,840m) and trek to Paiya (2,730m)Lukla is known as the “Gateway to Everest” as most of the Everest treks and expeditions begin from this Sherpa settlement. Walk past the colorful Lukla bazaar and head south to Paiya. We descend down to Surkye where we stop for lunch. From Skye, it is a steep ascent to Chutok La, a mountain pass. Another hour on an undulating trail brings you to Paiya.
Day 04: Trek to Panggom (2,846)The trail meanders across traditional farms, terraced fields, and lush jungles. Cross a small wooden bridge over the Paiya Khola, a small stream. Take a steep ascent to Khari La, a mountain pass. Walk on an up and down route, past a dense rhododendron and bamboo forest, before reaching the small Sherpa settlement of Panggom. En-route enjoy amazing views of the Dudh Koshi Valley.
Day 05: Trek to Ramailo Danda (3,276m)After breakfast, we leave Panggom and begin walking towards Ramailo Danda via Ningsow. The trail goes up into a dense forest of rhododendron and bamboo to Pankongma La (3,174m), another mountain pass. We walk through the point that separates the Dudh Koshi River Valley and Hingku Valley.
Day 06: Trek to Chhatra Khola / Taktor (2,800m)Today’s trail cuts through a dense jungle and the Makalu Barun National Park. As there are no teahouses en route, we carry a packed lunch. The park’s area extends up to the international border of Tibet. If you are lucky, you may come across a few of the park’s wild inhabitants – red panda, snow leopard, Himalayan Tahr, musk deer, pale blue flycatcher, spiny babbler, etc. Following the Pasang Lhamu trail, named after the first Nepalese female mountaineer to scale Mount Everest, we make our way to Chhatra Khola / Taktor.
Day 07: Trek to Kothe (3,691m)We head north and walk beside the Majhang Khola (‘khola’ is river in Nepali). Crossing this river we take the trail alongside the Hinku Khola. Following an up and down path, we reach a bridge which we cross and reach the other side of the river. A few steps ahead lies Kothe, our stop for the night.
Day 08: Trek to Thaknak (4,358m)4 hours walk from here brings us to Thaknak, a summer camp used by yak herders. Charpati Himal lies very close, and we see the whole mountain, from the base to the summit. There are a couple of newly built teahouses offering food and shelter to trekkers and climbers heading to Mera Peak
Day 09: Trek to Khare (5,045m)Khare, which lies at the bottom of Mera Peak, is also known as Mera Peak Base Camp. You make your ascent up to Mera Peak from here. It has a few teahouses and climbing gear and equipment outlets. From here you get a close-up view of the north face of Mera Peak. Head to your teahouse and have lunch. After resting for a bit, you can explore the surrounding area.
Day 10: At Khare : Acclimatization Day and Pre-Climb TrainingDuring the pre-climb training, your guide will teach you the proper use of climbing equipment (ice axe, jumar/ascender, crampon, harness, etc.) and basic techniques to scale the peak. He will also share some practical tips on how you can keep yourself safe in the mountains. This training is important and valuable, especially if you are a novice climber. After the training, you can take a rest or explore the area. Right above Khare is a hill from where you get good views of Mera La.
Day 11: Trek to Mera High Camp (5,780m)From High Camp, we get to enjoy inspiring views of the five highest peaks in the world- Mount Everest (8,848m), Kanchenjunga (8,586m), Lhotse (8,516m), Cho Oyu (8,188m), and Makalu (8,485m). We also get good views of Baruntse (7,129m), Gaurishanker (7,134m), and Chamlang (7,319m). We will be sleeping in single tents (1 tent for 1 climber). Retire early as we have an early start tomorrow.
Day 12: Summit Mera Peak (6,476m) and descend to Kongma Dingma (4,850m)Today is the big day. We start around 1am so as to reach the summit by sunrise and descend all the way to Kongma Dingma by afternoon. The quick decent means a long day of trekking but fewer problems with acclimatization.
Day 13: Contingency Day for Summit.A reserved day for summit if our summit bid on Day 12 gets canceled due to bad weather or ill health. This day can also be used for emergencies like flight delays or unforeseen events that may lead us to cancel a day during our trip. If everything rolls out as planned, this extra day can be used to go a little bit slow and explore some more places on the trail.
Day 14: Trek from Kongma Dingma to Seto Pokhari (5,035m)As we are ascending steadily near Seto Pokhari or White Lake, we see the first lake among a series of lakes that occupy the upper Hongu Basin. On today’s trek we experience the beautiful mountain wilderness of the Hongu Valley. On our right is Chamlang (7321m) with hanging glaciers on its South-West and North-West faces.
Day 15: Seto Pokhari to Baruntse Base Camp (5,300m)
We begin our trek after breakfast. Our trail crosses a wide and grassy valley scattered with small boulders. The valley gets increasingly barren as we climb higher. We pass Peak 41 and Hunku Peak and proceed to the base camp of Mt Baruntse. Overnight camping at Baruntse Base camp.
Day 16-25: Baruntse climbing period
An Advanced Base Camp will be set up at an altitude of 6,000m near a glacier at the foot of the South East Ridge. We need to allow enough time for additional acclimatization and for load carrying to stock Baruntse Advance Base Camp (BABC) and Camp 1. Camp 1 is at a height of 6,450m on the South-East Ridge proper. Above Camp 1, we climb snow slopes of 45°and the route becomes more demanding. Fixed line would be placed on the ascent to Camp 1, below the West / East Col. The route above C2 requires some fixing which would be done by our Sherpa guides. From Camp 2, we climb to the summit. We also descend on the same route and spend overnight at Camp 1 and Baruntse Advanced Base Camp. Overnight in camp.
Day 26: Trek back to Kongma Dingma (4,850m)
After having breakfast, we'll clean up the base camp and get the garbage disposed of. Soon after collecting the garbage, we'll get all our stuff ready to descend Kongma Dingma. We'll climb the way down through Hinku Valley, which is relatively easier this time. After a hike of 6-7 hours, our trail finished at Kongma Dingma. We'll set up a tented camp to spend the night. With that, we have come to the end of another day of the Baruntse Expedition
Day 27: Trek Kongma Dingma to Khare (5,045m)Khare, which lies at the bottom of Mera Peak, is also known as Mera Peak Base Camp. There is usually a good trail which weaves across the snowfield, avoiding the crevassed areas. There are great views from the pass of Chamlang and Makalu. Once off the snow and ice, it's just a short trek down to Khare (5000m) where a small village has sprung up to serve the many climbers who come here each season to attempt Mera Peak.
Day 28: Trek down the valley of the Hinku Khola to Kothe (3600m).It's a downhill trek all the way today, initially with the steep west face of Mera Peak rising up on our left hand side. The valley heads in a south-westerly direction and then due south, passing a couple of glacial lakes and several sets of prayer-walls to the lodges at Tagnag. We will have a stop for lunch at Mosum Kharka and also pay our respects at the shrine under a boulder in Gondishung. Arriving at Kothe, we will check in at one of the lodges
Day 29: Trek from Kothe to Thuli Kharka (4,300m/14,107ft)We make an ascent to the west of Hinku Valley, walking down a trail covered with rhododendron trees. It is an up and down trail. We arrive at Thuli Kharka, a summer camp of local yak herders, a final hike up a path.
Day 30: Trek to Lukla (2,840m) via Zatrwa La Pass (4,600m)Leaving Thuli Kharka, we once again cross the Zatrwa La pass (4,600m) pass. In about 2 hours we reach the pass. The view is incredible, and we can view part of the trail that we crossed. Hinku Valley, Numbur Himal, Kongde, Dudh Kunda, and Khumbila look amazing. We walk to Lukla taking a downward trail. At Lukla, we enjoy a hot shower and a good meal. In the evening we have a small party to celebrate the success of our trip. Our local crew join us and make our last evening in the mountains memorable.
Day 31: Lukla-Morning fly back to KathmanduTake a Mountain scenic flight over the Himalaya to Kathmandu. Arrivals and transfer to Hotel. The trip will conclude here. You are open for your wellness day in Kathmandu. Evening, farewell dinner in Nepali typical restaurant.
Day 32: Free day in Kathmandu sightseeing and shoppingOne reserved day in Kathmanud if lukla flight might be cancelled.
Day 33: Kathmandu Hotel-Transfer to Airport (TIA)After having the breakfast we will transfer you to The Kathmandu Airport with private vehicle for your final departure.
Note: This itinerary is meant only as a guideline and is subject to change to suit the local conditions. Walking hours are based on an average walking pace and may change as per individual pace.
Baruntse expedition Permit
Route fixing (SPCC and EOA) fees
Garbage deposit and management fees
Expedition Liaison officer wages and fees
1:1 Sherpa guide (Everest Summiter) to climber ratio
Service of the Expedition manager at Everest base camp
Skill training clinic at the baruntse base camp
The ascent of Mera peak for acclimatization with 1:3 guide to client ratio
Freshly prepared meals (B,L,D) by our chef at the Baruntse base camp
A wide variety of nutritious high altitude mountain foods for higher camps
Individual box tent, dining tent, kitchen tent, toilet tent and other logistics
Heater, Generator, Shower and more for your comfort at the base camp
High altitude tent (North Face VE25 or similar) for higher camps above base camp
5 nights accommodation in Kathmandu.
All Meals (B,L,D) and accommodation during the trekking period
Satellite communication system at base camp but nominal charge for use
Radio set for communication between camps
Internal domestic airfare with 60kg baggage cargo
Staffs wages, allowances with their helicopter and medical insurance
Common climbing equipment (rope, Ice Screws, Snow bars etc)
Weather report during the entire expedition period
Emergency medical supplies with 24/7 on-call doctor during the entire expedition period.
Porterage of 60kg baggage for each member (Lukla-Base camp-Lukla)
Baruntse Summit certificate from the Department of Tourism, Nepal
Nepal entry visa and airport fees.
Personal equipment and clothing.
Personal expenses (phone calls, laundry, room service, extra hotel nights, extra meals, shopping, hot shower, hot and cold drinks, alcohols, snacks, water, Wi-Fi, battery re-charge, heater charge, etc.)
Alcoholic and bottled beverages.
Personal Climbing Gears
Drone & Special filming permit
Summit Bonus for Climbing Sherpa US $1000.00
Tips for Cook and Kitchen helpers
Travel insurance with trip cancellation, medical and evacuation policy.
All expenses associated with non-scheduled departure.
Guide Gratuity - Tipping is always a personal choice, but is greatly appreciated by your guides.
The following booking terms and conditions represent the contract between the customer and Adventure High Mountain. Adventure High Mountain is a government registered tour and trek company based in Kathmandu, Nepal, established with an aim to provide quality travel services.
At the time of booking, you are expected to read all the terms and conditions carefully. The booking confirmation will be given, thinking that you have read all the terms and conditions entitled by the core values of this company. After the booking process, you are completely obliged by the conditions mentioned below.
These booking conditions are only applied to the bookings you have made with this company.
The following terms and conditions apply, however the circumstances and regulations, contractual obligations to suppliers and affairs related to locations, and product type may slightly vary depending upon the situation.
$2000 deposit at time of registration, which includes a $800 non-refundable registration fee.
Balance due 60 days prior to departure.
Payment must be paid in full prior to the beginning of the trek.
Bank Name : MEGA BANK NEPAL LIMITED.
Beneficiary Name : ADVENTURE HIGH MOUNTAIN (P)LTD.
Account Number : 0570010151011
Swift Code: MBNLNPKA
Bank Address: Thamel, Saraswati Sadan - 29 Kathmandu Nepal.
We strongly recommend the purchase of travel cancellation insurance to protect you from the unexpected. You aren’t likely to think of it now, but people do get ill, break a bone, have a family emergency or get assigned to a last minute business trip. If you are in remote areas, please note that emergency rescue & evacuation can be very expensive.
We also strongly urge you to consider rescue and evacuation insurance if your own policy does not provide the coverage needed. Services available may include, but are not limited to, helicopter evacuation, medical care, etc.
If you choose not to purchase insurance, you assume full responsibility.